Kerala Backwaters Guide: How to Experience India’s Tropical Paradise from Alleppey

Few places in India capture a sense of calm like the Kerala Backwaters. A maze of canals, lagoons, and lakes lined with coconut palms and rice paddies, this is one of the most beautiful and unique landscapes in the country. Whether you drift along on a traditional houseboat, stay in a lakeside resort, or explore small canals by canoe, the backwaters give you a slower, more reflective glimpse of India.

We spent one night in a backwaters resort and another on a houseboat near Alleppey. The two experiences felt completely different, yet both captured what makes Kerala so special – peaceful mornings, soft evening light, and that constant rhythm of life on the water all around you.

If you’re planning a trip to Kerala, here’s everything you need to know about visiting the backwaters, choosing between a houseboat or resort, and making the most of your stay.

What Are the Kerala Backwaters

The Kerala Backwaters are a vast network of more than 900km of waterways stretching across the state near the Arabian Sea. They connect rivers, lakes, and canals, forming a unique ecosystem where freshwater and seawater meet.

Life here moves to the rhythm of the water. Villages sit right along the canals, and many homes are only accessible by boat. You’ll see fishermen throwing nets, children paddling to school, and coconut trees leaning over the water like they’re part of the flow.

It’s this slow, natural pace that makes the backwaters so captivating. Time seems to pause. The light changes constantly, and the reflections in the water create an almost dreamlike atmosphere.

Where Are the Kerala Backwaters

Main Backwater Regions

The most popular and accessible backwater regions are:

• Alleppey (Alappuzha): Often called the Venice of the East, this is the main hub for houseboats and short cruises for tourists.
  
• Kumarakom: A quieter, more nature-focused area with luxury resorts and birdwatching opportunities.
  
• Kollam and Ashtamudi Lake: Less crowded, good for longer cruises or peaceful escapes.
  
• Munroe Island: A small, scenic island near Kollam known for its narrow canals, village life, and traditional canoe tours through mangrove forests.
  

How to Reach the Backwaters

Most travellers start from Kochi (Cochin), which has the nearest airport and good train and bus connections.

• By Car or Taxi: About 2 to 3 hours from Kochi to Alleppey.
  
• By Train: Regular trains run between Kochi and Alleppey. The station is about 15 minutes from the main jetty for houseboats.
  
• By Bus: KSRTC buses run frequently from Kochi to Alleppey, Kumarakom, and Kottayam.

If you’re heading to Munnar or Thekkady, it’s easy to include the backwaters as a stop between the hills and the coast. It is around a 4-5 hour drive through lush jungle and views of the mountains

Alleppey vs Kumarakom for Best Kerala Backwaters Experience

Both Alleppey and Kumarakom sit on the same stretch of Vembanad Lake, but they offer very different experiences.

Why We Chose Alleppey ( aka Alappuzha)

We chose Alleppey because it offers far more choice of houseboats and budget options. It’s also better connected, with easy access from Kochi and plenty of short cruises to choose from. If it’s your first time visiting the backwaters, Alleppey is the easiest and most flexible base.

You can find boats for every style – from simple one-bedroom cruisers to luxurious floating villas with air-conditioning and dining decks. The competition keeps prices fair, and outside of peak season, you can arrive here without booking in advance to get a bargain deal.

Why Consider Kumarakom

Kumarakom has a quieter, more secluded atmosphere. It’s ideal if you prefer birdwatching, luxury resorts, or peaceful surroundings. The backwaters here feel more open and natural, with fewer houseboats and less movement.

The trade-off is that there’s less variety, and it can be more expensive. It is located on Vembanad Lake, a vast water body, with fewer smaller canals than in the Alleppey area, to explore the local village culture.

For first-time visitors, Alleppey’s range of choices and accessibility make it the better starting point, but if you’re returning or looking for less culture and more relaxation, Kumarakom may be better suited.

Staying on a Houseboat in the Kerala Backwaters

What to Expect on a Houseboat

A houseboat stay is one of Kerala’s most iconic travel experiences. Once a traditional cargo boat, these wooden ‘kettuvallams’ have been converted into comfortable floating homes. Most have one to three bedrooms, a small deck, a dining area, and an onboard kitchen.

We have seen some people say that the houseboat experience is not worth it anymore, as it is overcrowded and there are so many boats. However, when we visited, we didn’t find this at all. 

When you set off, the world slows down. You drift past palm trees, rice paddies, and tiny villages that seem untouched by time. Locals wave as you glide by, and the only sounds are the hum of the motor and the calls of birds.

The crew typically consists of a captain, a cook, and occasionally a helper. Meals are freshly cooked on board – we loved the home-cooked-style local Keralan dishes like pomfret (fried fish), fish curries and tasty vegetables like okra. Smelling the delicious aroma of a fresh meal being prepared while the sunset over the water was one of the highlights of our trip.

Most houseboats start their cruise around midday, travel through smaller canals in the afternoon, and anchor for the night on the edge of the lake. The next morning, you’ll have breakfast on deck before returning to the jetty.

It’s not a luxury cruise – it’s simple, quiet, and deeply relaxing. But that’s what makes it special.

How to Choose a Houseboat

The quality of houseboats varies a lot, so it’s worth doing a bit of research before booking.

• Check reviews and photos rather than relying on listings alone.
• Try to get a boat with an upper deck, which allows you some time away from the crew and to get better views across the waterways.
• Look for a houseboat with an enclosed living area, you will appreciate it at night to eat dinner and chill when you’d otherwise be surrounded by mosquitoes
• Book directly with operators when possible, as third-party sites often add big markups.
• Ask about air-conditioning, which usually only runs at night to save power.
• Confirm meals and timings, as some budget boats may offer shorter routes or limited options.

We stayed on Why Not Houseboat, a small but well-equipped boat that felt authentic and well cared for. It had everything we needed – comfortable rooms, great food, and an option to take a smaller boat through the smaller canals in the afternoon.

Staying in a Backwaters Resort

What to Expect at a Resort

Resorts around the backwaters give you comfort and flexibility while still offering beautiful lake views. Many sit right on the edge of the water, surrounded by palm trees and gardens filled with birds.

We stayed at Sterling Lake Palace, located just outside Alleppey, which had everything we wanted after a few days of travel – spacious rooms, a pool, and open views across the lake. Watching the sunset from the hotel restaurant while boats glided by was as peaceful as being on the water itself.

The biggest advantage of resorts is choice. You can explore the backwaters at your own pace, book canoe or shikara rides directly from the property, or cycle through nearby villages. It’s easy to experience the waterways without being confined to a boat.

Some resorts also arrange day cruises or local experiences like coir-making demonstrations and cooking classes. It’s a good way to connect with the area without giving up comfort.

You can also take the time to relax. Kerala is the home of Ayurveda, so we took the opportunity to enjoy massages and spa treatments, which are available at most resorts when you have some free time to pamper yourself.

How to Choose a Resort

• Location: Check whether it’s on the main lake or a smaller canal.
  
• Activities: Look for resorts that offer canoe trips, village walks, or cycling.
  
• Ambience: Some focus on luxury and privacy, others on a local, homestay feel.
  
• Transport: Make sure it’s easy to reach, as some resorts require a short boat transfer.

Exploring the Backwaters from a Resort

If you’re staying on land, there are still plenty of ways to experience the backwaters:

Canoe Rides

A peaceful way to see smaller canals that houseboats can’t reach. You’ll glide past narrow waterways lined with homes, schools, and coconut trees, getting a closer look at everyday life.

Shikara Rides

These are traditional open boats, perfect for short sunset cruises or half-day trips. They’re comfortable and photogenic, ideal for couples or small groups. Though not private like a canoe.

Cycling and Village Walks

Many resorts lend out bicycles or arrange guided walks. It’s a great way to explore rice fields, temples, and local markets while still being close to the water.

These shorter experiences are ideal if you prefer flexibility or don’t have time for an overnight cruise.

Houseboat vs Resort on Alleppey Backwaters

Choosing between a houseboat and a resort is one of the biggest decisions when planning a Kerala backwaters stay. Both give you beautiful views and the same soothing pace of life, but the experience itself feels completely different.

Why Choose a Houseboat

A houseboat is all about immersion. You’re not just watching the backwaters – you’re part of them. The scenery constantly shifts around you as you float past palm trees, villages, and paddy fields. You’ll see fishermen working, schoolchildren rowing across the canals, and women washing clothes on the banks. It’s intimate, personal, and incredibly photogenic.

There’s also a certain magic in being cut off from everything else. Once you’re on board, time slows down. You disconnect from the world and sink into the rhythm of the water. It’s quiet and peaceful, and a great time to relax in the sun, chat with your travel companions or get stuck into a book, while still being in awe of your surroundings.

That said, houseboats can feel a bit confining for some travellers. They are great during the day but dock at sunset (around 6pm), and with little to do at night, some people choose to just do a day trip. Wi-Fi can also be unreliable, and if you prefer space, air-conditioning, or freedom to walk around, it’s worth considering a resort instead.

Why Choose a Resort

Resorts offer stability, comfort, and more flexibility. You can still wake up to the sight of the water, but enjoy all the modern amenities – a pool, proper bathrooms, reliable internet, and restaurant options. Despite loving the houseboat experience, we were glad we also spent time in a backwaters resort. It felt like slowing down even more, but without the limits of being on the water.

The biggest advantage of staying at a resort is choice. You can take short excursions on smaller boats, join canoe tours, or hire a shikara for a few hours. Some places even offer cycling routes through nearby villages, letting you see another side of backwater life. You get to experience the waterways while still having your own space to come back to.

The Best of Both Worlds

If you can, do both. One night on a houseboat and one night in a resort gives you the perfect balance – a taste of life on the water and time to unwind on land. It’s how we did it: a night at Sterling Lake Palace followed by a stay on Why Not Houseboat. The contrast made the trip richer.

The houseboat gave us the moving picture postcard – the views, the rhythm, the charm. The resort gave us calm, comfort, and time to reflect. Together, they made the backwaters feel complete.

Summary: Keralan Houseboat vs Backwaters Resort

Tips for Visiting the Kerala Backwaters

• Book houseboats through trusted operators or reviews, not street touts.
  
• Arrive by midday for a smoother check-in and cruise start.
  
• Avoid weekends and public holidays if you want a calmer, peaceful experience.
  
• Bring mosquito repellent, and wear it at all times when near the water.
  
• Don’t expect nightlife – the backwaters are all about slowing down.
  

Where to Visit Next

If you’re planning a longer trip, see our 1-Week Kerala itinerary for guidance; the backwaters fit beautifully between the coast and the hills, and you could see:

• Munnar: Cool mountain air, tea plantations, and stunning viewpoints.
  
• Kochi: Historic Fort Kochi, colonial charm, and waterfront cafes.
  
• Varkala: Clifftop sunsets and relaxed beach life.

Each one offers a different side of Kerala and contrasts perfectly with the calm of the backwaters.

FAQs

Final Thoughts on Kerala’s Backwaters

The Kerala Backwaters are one of those places that stay with you. It’s not about ticking off sights or rushing between attractions – it’s about slowing down, breathing, and letting the lids of the backwaters take over.

Whether you’re gliding across the lake on a houseboat or watching the reflections from your resort balcony, this is Kerala at its most peaceful and beautiful.