48 Hours in Zurich at Christmas: Fondue, Festive Markets & Frozen Fingers

I spent 48 hours in Zurich at Christmas visiting one of my closest uni friends (who’s been living there for a few years now), and honestly, it felt like stepping straight into a snow globe. Think crisp winter air, fairy lights wrapped around every corner, and that kind of cold that makes you constantly crave something warm, preferably melted cheese or hot chocolate.

If you’re planning a short winter break in Switzerland, here’s exactly how we spent our 48 hours in Zurich with a few things I’d definitely do differently next time.

Day 1: Arrival, Fondue & First night in Zurich

We landed in Zurich in the afternoon, slightly tired but very excited and immediately faced our first decision: train or Uber?

Now, the most efficient (and very Swiss) way to get into the city centre is to take the S2 train from the airport. It’s quick, well-connected, and super easy to navigate, even if it’s your first time in Switzerland. Tickets can be bought at the machines at the station, and everything is clearly signposted – very on brand for Switzerland.

That said, we opted for an Uber this time, mostly for convenience.

A quick note here: depending on where you are going, taxis can be extortionately expensive – starting at around 70–80 CHF for a relatively short journey. Uber, on the other hand, is much more reasonable and works on a fixed fare, so you know what you’re paying upfront. If you do take an Uber from the airport, make sure you head to Check 2 (Departures on the 2nd floor). The arrivals section either doesn’t allow Uber pickups or charges drivers ridiculous waiting fees – our driver told us it’s something like 5 CHF for every 30 seconds parked, which is honestly wild.

Once we got into the city, with our bags still with us, and we did what anyone should do as they first arrive in Switzerland: go straight for fondue. My lovely friend had made a reservation at Zum Königsstuhl, and I can confidently say it was one of the highlights of the entire trip. The restaurant is cosy, traditional, and exactly what you want from a Swiss dining experience in winter.

You can choose from different cheese blends, but we kept it simple and went for a classic fondue. It came bubbling hot, served with chunks of fresh Swiss bread and boiled baby potatoes. There’s something oddly satisfying about dipping bread in a pot of melted cheese, while it slowly warms you up from the cold outside. It was rich, indulgent, and exactly what we needed after travelling.

Another restaurant that came highly recommended (especially for traditional Swiss food) was Restaurant Dézaley. We didn’t manage to go this time, but it’s firmly on my list for next time.

After dinner, we wandered through the streets a bit, soaking in our first glimpse of Zurich at night. The city feels calm, clean, and almost cinematic, especially during Christmas when everything is lit up. To get back, we took the tram, and this is where Zurich really shines.

The public transport system here is incredible. Trams and buses are frequent, reliable, and genuinely one of the easiest ways to get around the city. We bought a 24-hour transport ticket for 9.20 CHF, which gives you unlimited travel across trams and buses within the central zones. It’s one of the best things you can do when visiting, no stress over individual tickets or routes. Just hop on and off as you please.

We ended the night back at my friend’s place, catching up properly, warming up, and getting ready for a full day ahead.

Day 2: Chocolate, Lake Views & Christmas Markets

We started the next day slowly, which I’d highly recommend, especially in winter when it’s freezing outside.

Instead of rushing out for brunch, we had a quick breakfast at home using bits from the local supermarkets (Migros or Coop) – fresh bread, slices of Black Forest ham, and Swiss cheese (so goood!). Once we were ready, we headed out for what was supposed to be our main activity of the day: the Lindt Chocolate Museum. Except… it was fully booked. And not just “booked for the day”, booked out weeks in advance. Apparently, if you want to visit, you need to book at least 1–2 months ahead, especially during the Christmas period. Lesson learned, 100% booking this in advance next time.

So instead, we pivoted, and it worked out perfectly! We went to Sprungli or Sprüngli, which is basically chocolate heaven in shop form. If you’re a chocolate lover, this place is a must-visit.

I ordered their famous hot chocolate with Grand Cru, which is essentially a thick, whipped chocolate cream layered into warm milk. They describe it as bitter chocolate with milk, but to me, it just tasted like a rich, velvety milk chocolate, comforting, indulgent, and perfect for the cold weather. We also shared a slice of their classic chocolate cake, and it was genuinely one of the best I’ve had. Soft, rich, and not overly sweet.

After spending (and eating) more than we planned, we hopped back on the tram and made our way towards Lake Zurich. The weather was cold, but we got incredibly lucky, it was sunny, clear, and bright, which meant we could see the Alps in the distance. The combination of the lake, the mountains, and the crisp winter air made it one of those moments where you just stop and take it all in.

From there, we headed to one of the best viewpoints in the city: Poly Terrace at ETH University. Fun fact: Albert Einstein studied mathematics and did a physics teaching diploma program at the ETH University!

It’s a bit of a climb (or you can take a short tram ride + walk), but it’s absolutely worth it. From the top, you get a panoramic view over Zurich: the rooftops, the river, the churches, stunning.

We wandered around a bit more before heading towards Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s main shopping street. It’s lined with luxury brands, department stores, and beautifully decorated shop windows, especially during Christmas. Even if you’re not planning to shop, it’s worth walking through just for the atmosphere.

That said… we did end up doing a bit of shopping, of course!

Christmas Markets & Food You Can’t Miss

As the evening rolled in, we made our way to the Christmas markets, arguably the highlight of Zurich in winter. We didn’t stick to just one. Instead, we wandered through a few different ones:

• Münsterhof
• Niederdorf (around Zwingliplatz)
• Wiehnachtsdorf at Bellevue

Each market had its own vibe, but all of them felt festive, cosy, and full of life.

And then, of course, there was the food…We tried a mix of traditional Swiss dishes, including:

• Spinatknödel (spinach dumplings)
• Zürcher Geschnetzeltes (creamy sliced veal)
• Rösti (crispy grated potatoes)
• Raclette (melted cheese scraped onto potatoes or bread)

Yes, there was a lot of cheese involved. No regrets whatsoever.

To drink, we had the usual mulled wine, but the real surprise was hot gin with lemon and spices. I didn’t expect to like it as much as I did, but it was warm, slightly sharp, and honestly perfect for the cold. I wish England did these!!

One thing I will say, I really wish I had taken more photos here. But it truly is one of those experiences where you’re so busy eating, chatting, and soaking it all in that you forget. By the end of it, we were full and slightly frozen, so we skipped a proper dinner and headed back home.

Day 3: A Slow Goodbye

On our final morning, we kept things simple again and headed to Lou’s for breakfast. It’s a cosy spot with a relaxed vibe, perfect for a slow start before heading back to reality. Good coffee, good food, and a nice way to end the trip.

Before heading to the airport, there’s one small but important thing to note about transport. If you’re using a 24-hour ticket within central Zurich, you may need to buy an extension ticket for 1–2 additional zones to cover the journey to the airport. It’s a quick add-on and easy to get from the ticket machines, but definitely something to keep in mind.

What I’d Do Differently NEXT TIME

• Try Restaurant Dézaley
• Book the Lindt Chocolate Museum well in advance
• Take a day trip to places like St. Moritz or Interlaken
• Spend more time at the Christmas markets (and actually take photos this time)
• Try more local brunch spots recommended by my friend

Final Thoughts oN Zurich at Christmas

Zurich at Christmas is not the cheapest city break, but it’s one of those places that feels worth it. It’s clean, beautiful, and effortlessly festive. The kind of place where even a tram ride feels scenic, and where something as simple as bread and cheese can become a highlight of your day.

If you’ve only got 48 hours, this itinerary gives you a perfect mix of food, views, and festive experiences without feeling rushed. And if you’re anything like me, you’ll already be thinking about your next trip before you’ve even left!